Matt Yglesias

Nov 28th, 2008 at 5:11 pm

More Truth to Power

Naturally, my pre-Thanksgiving turkey-bashing has proven controversial. But I would like to emphasize to readers and family members alike that leading food authorities support me on this. Here’s some Mark Bittman on the subject:

Let’s be candid: If turkey were not traditional at Thanksgiving it would probably be less popular than duck or goose, and we’d see a lot more capons in the market. [...] (I have yet to find a way to make turkey breast meat what you’d call delicious. If for no other reason, it’s why God put mayonnaise on this earth.)

Well executed, turkey can be okay. Which is fine. But it’s also the sign of a distinctly inferior food source. And note that you really never see turkey on the menu of a great restaurant — the world’s greatest chefs can presumably pull off something pretty good for an occasion that requires turkey, but they have no confidence in the ingredient.






78 Responses to “More Truth to Power”

  1. urkel Says:

    You are obviously a commo-islama-nazi liberal, despite your initial support for invading Iraq. When George W. Bush ascends with his followers to Heaven, you will be as Bible supplements put it “Left Behind.”

    DUCK = HATE AMERICA

  2. mad6798j Says:

    Turkey makes for good sandwich material. Better than chicken. That’s it.

  3. MikeJ Says:

    Turkey bashing isn’t controversial, knee jerk contrarianism is boring.

  4. zenster666 Says:

    You obviously don’t know turkee. It’s good in tacos too.

  5. tsg Says:

    Yglesias is 100% right. You don’t have to brine a chicken or a duck in order to obtain a modicum of flavor.

    Face it, folks. Turkey is a bland bird.

  6. MikeD Says:

    Sorry, Matt (and tsg) but only bad cooks claim that turkey is inferior. It’s infinitely superior to both chicken and duck. Good cooks know that if the meal turned out badly, they’re to blame; bad cooks blame the ingredients.

    I suggest you learn to cook; until you do, you have no standing to comment on food.

  7. ferd Says:

    Turkey breast feels good on the tooth. Any enjoyment beyond that is pure gravy.

  8. Andrew Fly Says:

    Dark meat y’all. Cooked well, it’s like pulled pork

  9. tsg Says:

    MikeD, I’m sure you make a delicious shoe leather soup.

    Every good cook knows that good cooking starts with good ingredients.

  10. Duke Says:

    Turkey may be a little less tasty than chicken… but I can’t ever think of a time when turkey has caused me intestinal distrees. Chicken does that 75% of the time I eat it. I should say “ate” it, as it’s been kind of cut from my diet.

  11. Bat of Moon Says:

    I ate some dark meat from a free-range turkey for Thanksgiving. The flavor was rich and intense — yeah, “pulled pork” isn’t far off. The breast meat was unremarkable, though giblet gravy took care of that.

  12. C Wilson Says:

    Try this Portuguese recipe for turkey and you’ll never try another.

    A small fresh turkey weighing about 10 pounds
    2 pounds salt (that’s right, 2 pounds)

    STUFFING:
    2 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced
    1 stick unsalted butter
    — —

    3 tablespoons olive oil
    1 pound rough Portuguese, French, or Italian bread, broken into small chunks (this will amount to about two 15-inch loaves)
    1/2 teaspoon salt
    1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    31/2 cups chicken broth (preferably homemade)
    2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten

    Fill the neck and body cavities of the turkey with salt, then rub the skin well all over with salt. Place the turkey and remaining salt in a very large deep kettle, add enough cold water just to cover the bird, and set in a very cool spot for 12-24 hours.

    Toward the end of the soaking period, prepare the stuffing: In a large heavy kettle set over moderate heat, saute the garlic in the butter and olive oil about 5 minutes until limp. Add the bread, salt, and pepper, and toss well; now add the chicken broth and beat hard with a wooden spoon until the mixture is pastelike; turn the heat to its lowest point, cover the kettle, and steam 15 to 20 minutes, until
    the bread has absorbed all the liquid. Add the egg yolks and beat hard until smooth. Remove from the heat and reserve.

    Preheat the oven to hot (400°F). Drain the turkey and rinse very well, removing every bit of salt from the neck and body cavities. It’s important to rinse the bird several times in cool water, so that all traces of salt are gone. Place the bird on the counter with the neck cavity facing you. With your hands, begin working the skin free from the breast. Proceed gently, taking care not to tear the skin. It’s slow going at first, but once you begin to free the skin, the job goes quickly. Loosen it all the way down the bird to within about 1 inch of the tail end, down both sides. Now, with your hands, push the stuffing bit by bit far down under the skin and continue, packing it in lightly, until the breast is covered with about a J-inch layer. Now fill the neck cavity, skewer the neck skin fiat against the back to enclose, and truss the bird.

    Place the turkey breast-side up in a large shallow roasting pan (no rack needed)and roast uncovered for about 2 1/2hours or until the bird is richly browned and a leg moves easily in the hip joint; do not baste.

    Remove from the oven and let stand . 20 minutes. Drain the drippings into a sauceboat and keep warm. Remove the trussing string and skewers and serve at once.

  13. James Gary Says:

    Try this Portuguese recipe for turkey and you’ll never try another

    …..2 pounds salt (that’s right, 2 pounds)

    The reason you’ll never try another is: after eating it, your blood pressure will be so high as to insure heart failure—probably fatal.

  14. Aaron Says:

    @ MikeD:

    I think Matt’s evidence, the fact that indeed at a good restaurant you will NEVER see turkey on the menu, is sufficient to prove that even the best chefs know turkey cannot stand up to most other fowl.

    BUT, and this is a big but, the fact that the turkey most people eat now is the Broad-Breasted Bronze, a genetically mutated variety that is no longer even capable of naturally mating because it grows too large, undoubtedly has something to do with the blandness of turkey. Heritage turkey, on the other hand, does in fact taste significantly better.

  15. gymble Says:

    As usual at my house, we’re once again left with a superfluous amount of turkey and have nearly finished all the side dishes. And I wonder why I’m such a slave to tradition that I make a turkey every year despite the fact that everyone, including myself, enjoys the rest of the food much more.

  16. daveNYC Says:

    It’s infinitely superior to both chicken and duck.

    Better than duck? Until they manage to strap wings on cattle, ducks the best flying meat out there.

  17. rea Says:

    note that you really never see turkey on the menu of a great restaurant

    Not to get into a debate over what contsitiutes a “great restaurant”, but note, for example this.

  18. brewmn Says:

    “And note that you really never see turkey on the menu of a great restaurant — the world’s greatest chefs can presumably pull off something pretty good for an occasion that requires turkey, but they have no confidence in the ingredient.”

    How many twelve to twenty pound cuts of meat typically get served at “great restaurants,” Matt?

    Ezra’s at least got some interesting ideas about food, and an open mind. You know fuck-all about fine dining, and from the looks of you, your favorite meal is a sack of sliders and a bag of cheese fries.

    Just shut up about the turkey, already.

  19. SqueakyRat Says:

    How many twelve to twenty pound cuts of meat typically get served at “great restaurants,” Matt?

    And a full-grown steer weighs what, about half a ton? Yet beef has been known to be served in good restaurants, I believe.

  20. Adrian Says:

    Mark Bittman is a deranged lunatic. If you wanna go after poultry, I say Chicken is your target. It’s flavor is almost entirely neutral.

    And capons?? My god. I would rather eat trash out of the dumpster than those castrated hunks of schmaltz.

  21. Addison Says:

    Turkeys are more cost effective, first of all. They can also easily be made to taste good, they just happen to taste their worst when cooked in the most common method (stuck in a regular oven for hours). Deep fry a turkey sometime. Or grill it. It becomes delicious.

    As has been said, eat the DARK MEAT of a turkey. The white meat is good meat mainly when dressed with gravy or used in a recipe as the main protein. That’s not a problem. All birds aren’t going to be best in the same ways.

    Duck is more delicious, of course, but ducks are also cuter. As are geese. And frankly that’s a major concern. Turkeys are the hideous monsters of our prehistoric nightmares. The more we eat the less chance they’ll mutate back into waddled raptors.

  22. eve Says:

    Turkey in sandwiches is the best use of turkey. Love it. I like turkey fine (along with typical southern side dishes), but I don’t mind skipping tradition. We had salmon.

  23. bdbd Says:

    still more on turkey! no wonder this blog is so influential!

  24. Peter Says:

    A few years ago, on Iron Chef (the Japanese version), they made turkey sashimi. Yes, raw turkey.

  25. Nylund Says:

    1. As turkey bacon, turkey burgers, turkey sausage, and turkey jerky prove, turkey is a surprisingly versatile substitute for those wishing to eat a tad healthier while still enjoying their favorite foods. Restaurants usually emphasize flavor over health so such uses aren’t common on menus, but for home use, they are great products.

    2. Turkey is a far superior to chicken as a lunch meat. (I also prefer a turkey pot pie to a chicken pot pie).

    3. Many shawarma places use turkey, sometimes blended with other meats. I do not consider such shawarma to be inferior.

    4. I always regret ordering the duck. It is never as good as I think it will be. Duck is highly over-rated (this does not hold for fois gras).

    I am not arguing that turkey is the best meat ever, but I welcome its inclusion in my diet. My food world would be worse off without it.

    The only real flaw of the Thanksgiving Turkey tradition is the insistence that we cook the bird whole.

  26. Estrien Says:

    Turkey is generally lousy white cardboard. But a wild one – mostly dark rich meat – is lovely and could easily make a five star menu. It’s sort of like eating boar after munching through industrial pork.

    Good luck trying to bag one though. They run around in gangs, are incredibly watchful and take off like a Harrier jump jet when frightened.

  27. bob mcmanus Says:

    Protein’s protein. Best stuff comes in a can to be mixed with raw eggs & milk after doing the reps. Turkey ain’t too bad, after putting it thru the blender with some orange juice and broccoli.

  28. Walt Says:

    This just goes to show that just as the Washington/New York conventional wisdom on Iraq got it dangerously wrong, so does the Washington/New York consensus on food. We need to purge the restaurants and the cooking schools, the same way we need to purge the State Department and the Defense Department.

  29. Rob Says:

    Matt’s such an iconclast that only the New York Times is there to back him up!

  30. tsg Says:

    I’m not sure why, but I think this turkey war is great fun. Kudos to Yglesias for speaking truth to power.

    Turkey is perfectly fine, in a bland, virtually tasteless way. It makes a good sandwich filling with plenty of salt, mayo, gravy, whatever. You can put lipstick on a turkey, but it’s still a turkey. It doesn’t taste bad, but that’s because it doesn’t really have much taste of any kind. Turkey sans lipstick is borderline prison food.

    Can any of you imagine a food-centric holiday in France or Italy with turkey as the focal point? I realize turkeys aren’t native to Europe, but still.

    @Adrian: I share your revulsion for Mark Bittman. His writing is digestible enough, but his TV persona is goose pimple inducing. And not in a good way.

  31. Addison Says:

    It seems that Mr Yglesias has turned chicken and ducked the conversation. Sure the comments groused a little bit but certainly anyone convinced of their beliefs wouldn’t quail in the face of such light criticism.

    CORNISH HEN.

  32. Bill Cameron Says:

    I’m not sure what qualifies as “fine dining” establishments, but I’ve eaten turkey dishes in a number of highly-rated and reviewed restaurants in Massachusetts, Washington state, Oregon, and California. This notion that that good restaurants won’t serve turkey because it’s a sub-standard ingredient strikes me as an assertion without evidence.

    Hell, it’s fine to not like turkey. And any grocery store turkey is going to be bland for reasons explained by others. But for someone who, in other matters, is so committed to weighing actual evidence and making carefully reasoned arguments, your faith-based approach to turkey denigration is disappointing.

  33. tsg Says:

    @Addison: Nice!!!!

  34. cd Says:

    Turkey isn’t that great, which is fine. Presumably one could eat beef, chicken, or any other source of meat for 364 days a year. One day a year there is a tradition of eating Turkey, which isn’t the best meat, but is certainly edible, regardless if it is done right or not. So I say deal with it. Or don’t deal with it and cook something else, and be sure to let everyone you know how unrefined their pallet is for eating Turkey for dinner(oh the humanity!). But I think it should be noted that even though Turkey is not as good as foie gras or a 16oz rib eye, there is a great potential for excellent side dishes on thanksgiving that can more than make up for a relatively lackluster bird.

  35. west coast Says:

    Capon! Around here it’s become rare. Whole Foods no longer stocks it, nor does Gelson’s or any of the other high-end groceries. What’s worse, there’s really no butcher shops any more, so you can’t even get one if you beg.

    It’s a better tasting meat, easier to cook, comes in smaller denominations (the smallest turkey is 14lbs or so, a capon weighs in at closer to 8lbs) and…did I mention it just tastes so much better?

  36. Don Says:

    Most people like fatty flesh, whether beef or duck, and it is the fat they like. Turkey is an excellent, tasteless delivery system for gravy sauces. Try Diana Kennedy’s turkey mole.
    db

  37. fergus Says:

    Goose fer the fock’s sake! GOOOOSE!

  38. Glen Tomkins Says:

    You know any restaurants that have roast chicken on the menu?

    It’s the method of cooking, roasting, that makes turkey not suitable for restaurants.

    Since when is restaurant fare the standard of good eating? I’ve never had a gumbo at any restaurant that came close to what my grandmother, or even I, could do.

  39. cheflovesbeer Says:

    Matt stop digging.

    Unless you are employing the Utah Phillips philosophy of “You got to mess with people”

  40. Adam Villani Says:

    You know any restaurants that have roast chicken on the menu?

    Zankou Chicken.

    Smoked turkey leg has become something of a mainstay at county fairs and the like, and it’s quite tasty.

    Turkey breast is excellent in sandwiches.

    But I must say, if Bittman is speaking well of mayonnaise, he deserves another three months in Food Critic Purgatory.

    Bittman does deserve props, however, for correctly identifying (in an article a couple years ago) Southern California’s San Gabriel Valley as the center of U.S. Chinese cuisine. It takes a big man in New York to admit it’s not the center of the universe.

  41. Adam Villani Says:

    > You know any restaurants that have roast chicken on the menu?

    Smoked turkey leg has become something of a mainstay at county fairs and the like, and it’s quite tasty.

    I should note, though, that the broader point still holds that the proper way of cooking turkey is just not what most restaurants are set up for. Roasting is a specialty enterprise; most restaurants are set up for cooking on stovetops, grills, and/or a small amount of baking.

  42. Comment Says:

    Happy Thanksgiving Matt – I enjoy your blog. But! My Turkey was fantastic last night.

    FANTASTIC!

  43. maryQ Says:

    OK, so it is inferior. Which is what makes the challenge of producing an outstanding turkey dinner so exciting. Probably the main reason we only eat it on the holidays is because it requires a huge amount of work to do it right. But turkey has much in its favor. It’s pretty healthy, if you get one of those pastured animals, which also taste way better, by the way. And turkey gravy just rocks. And that gigantic cavity, perfect for stuffing with all kinds of yummy delicious fruity nutty starchy things. And I think that sage and thyme were pretty much invented to season turkey.

    It also makes great leftovers. I just froze away seven dinners worth of turkey and gravy, and I’m now making stock to make turkey vegetable soup, which will be enough for about eight dinners for my family.

    And cold turkey salad, with a little mayo, some curry powder,toasted pecans and dried cranberries……..mmmmmmmmm.

    Can’t do all that with a duck.

  44. tsg Says:

    @Glen Tomkins: Every French bistro on earth has roast chicken. I suggest you to take a back-to-back tasting test of French roast chicken vis-a-vis American roast turkey.

  45. sab Says:

    I think the problem is in treating turkeys like giant chickens. I’ve always thought of them as extremely lean, not very bright hogs. I don’t know many turkey farmers (i.e. farmers of the modern idiotic turkeys) who respect them. These birds drown in their own water dishes. Pigs, on the other hand, are mentally and emotionally a lot exceptionally smart dogs. They can work drinking fountains with their little trotters when they are just babies.I’ve never met a hog farmer who didn’t love and respect his hogs. So how can you eat a dog? Many hog recipes work just fine with turkey. It’s healthier (the lower cholesterol white meat) plus you aren’t eating a critter that could be the family dog.

  46. Comment Says:

    Stuff your Turkey with Apples and Cranberries – Get your traditional stuffing somewhere else/

  47. Jim Says:

    Turkey tastes like rotten chicken.

  48. Sophia Says:

    As already noted, turkey as substitute is the key. Ground turkey is a good replacement for most properly seasoned recipes calling for ground beef. Tastes just as good without as much fat. Excellent turkey sausages can be purchased at the most pedestrian grocery stores. It’s a way to enjoy to your more tricked out meats and recipes without so much fat.

  49. Steve S. Says:

    “leading food authorities support me on this.”

    Leading food authorities don’t generally review ground beef, french fries, delivery pizza, canned chili, or Doritos either.

    “If turkey were not traditional at Thanksgiving it would probably be less popular than duck or goose”

    No, if duck or goose had a reasonable proportion of lean that could feed an extended family then they might be more popular.

    “you really never see turkey on the menu of a great restaurant”

    You don’t see flatbread and ghee, either. What’s your point?

  50. delicatemonster Says:

    For a long time I suffered this prejudice as well until I visited the Yucutan and experienced Turkey in a rich mole sauce.

    Deeply satisfying as a culinary treat, and, um, something of a soporific, which is an interesting side effect for family festivities.

    On the flip side, the American Turkey, is, as many have already noted, genetically mutated in a most ridiculous fashion, bland, tasteless and ultimately suffering from the same diseases our tomatoes suffer from–Americanus Efficientus. Perfect year round and almost entirely inedible. There’s an analogy there for the end of the American Empire, but I’ll leave you to, um, pick it apart….

    cheers,
    dm

  51. El Cid Says:

    Once again our family had an awesome turkey with some of the most flavorful meat I’ve had all year, and it wasn’t brined, and it was (not by my choice) a regular, store-bought turkey, and all we did was stuff it with stuffing which had plenty of celery and onion and garlic in it, and butter and oil under the skin, and dry rub it, and brown it and then steam it in a Dutch oven, and of course let it sit out of the oven for about 45 minutes.

    Guess we got to hear more whines from people who just can’t get the turkey right.

  52. godoggo Says:

    I live in the SG Valley, and of course there are an enourmous and variety of Chinese restaurants here. But most of them aren’t very good. Go up to San Francisco though, and you can’t go wrong…I could get my little China girl who came here to visit me years ago to vouch for me on this if I had any idea whatever happened to her.

  53. kill your own meat Says:

    wild turkeys are tasty but in most places the season ends 15-30 days before Thanksgiving. Grouse and female pheasants eaten right after the hunt are superior to ducks.

  54. Eric U. Says:

    I had leftover turkey tonight, and it was a real chore. However, turkey and mango pickle sandwiches are great. Problem is, I never think about getting the mango pickle until it’s too late.

  55. Adam Villani Says:

    I live in the SG Valley, and of course there are an enourmous and variety of Chinese restaurants here. But most of them aren’t very good.

    Absolute hogwash. Read your Jonathan Gold.

  56. JMG Says:

    Dear Matt: The point of a Thanksgiving turkey is not for it to be five-star cuisine (any competent cook, hell, I can, make a juicy turkey that tastes better than passable even to snobs). The point of a Thanksgiving turkey is to taste the way it did when you were a little kid.
    Tradition is an important part of human life, for better or worse.

  57. mainstreet Says:

    Here in Morocco, they eat turkey, even though they don’t have any specific cultural reason to. It’s great in couscous.

    And only fools eat the white meat.

    Turkey is all about the dark meat.

  58. Dan Kervick Says:

    And note that you really never see turkey on the menu of a great restaurant — the world’s greatest chefs can presumably pull off something pretty good for an occasion that requires turkey, but they have no confidence in the ingredient.

    Fair enough. But you never see matzah and boiled eggs on the menu either. We eat turkey as part of a sacramental meal that ritually connects us with our earlier American forbears, and recalls their deliverance from oppressive European bondage, and hope of a New World. Turkey is native to America, and unlike the duck and the goose is not to be found in the Old World.

  59. Patrick Says:

    If your turkey is bland it is for two reasons:

    1. It has been bred that way (the domestic turkey is not even native to the U.S. but is based on a Mexican fowl).

    2. You overcooked it. If that popper popped, you overcooked it by a mile. People are so scared of food, that they routinely cook things too long, drying out the white meat. The Gov’t doesn’t help by giving out cooking temps that are 10-15 deg. over what is necessary.

    If you can get your hands on an Eastern Wild Turkey and cook it to 165, it really is spectacular.

  60. Marie Burns Says:

    We had rack of lamb for Thanksgiving. Goes great with a boozed-up cranberry chutney, too. And though brining is declasse this year, roasting a brined free-range chicken will make you think you’re en Bresse. Vraiment!

    The Constant Weader at http://www.RealityChex.com

  61. El Cid Says:

    Patrick: I’ve found the poppers to be generally accurate — but you have to already know by time and temperature anyway about when it’s going to ‘pop’ anyway. Few people are waiting in front of the oven window the moment it does so. Second, most people aren’t used to letting a piece of meat settle and have its temperatures and juices redistribute.

    Politically, the poppers are a successful faux-legal way also of dealing with relatives and friends who are in fact deathly wary of any poultry which isn’t overcooked. ‘Hey, the popper popped, it’s done!’

  62. Gheby Says:

    What’s so bad about having to brine the turkey before cooking it? If you only ever ate chicken without any seasonings, marinades, or sauces it would seem pretty boring too.

    Try brining a turkey and then deep frying it. You get an incredibly flavorful and moist bird. And I definitely second what other people have said about dark turkey meat: it can be amazing when smoked.

  63. Sean Peters Says:

    I’ll never understand Matt’s hard-on for turkey – it’s no better or worse than any other mass produced meat. Mass produced chicken is similarly bland. Domestic duck and goose are almost unbelievably fatty. Corn-fed beef – blah. Pork: you can’t even find it nowadays without it being shot up with brine. I hunt and frequently serve up venison and wild duck/goose/turkey, all of which are notably superior to the commercial versions.

    So if you are bored with commercially available meats, go hunting and get you a deer or a mallard or something. Or find free-range birds and pork, or grass-fed beef. Better and better for you.

    All of this seems obvious, so why the continual yammering about the horrors of turkey? Unless, perish the thought, this is a manufactured controversy designed to drive page views.

  64. Hlem Says:

    “I suggest you learn to cook; until you do, you have no standing to comment on food.”

    “You know fuck-all about fine dining, and from the looks of you, your favorite meal is a sack of sliders and a bag of cheese fries.”

    Why are people who think they know something about food so obnoxious and deeply offended by other people’s consumption choices?

    (because they’re petty and nasty people who grasp at whatever tenuous superiority over others they can find, maybe?)

    Turkey’s a crap fowl within the world of fowl, end of story.

  65. Wallace Says:

    I agree with Matt. I cook well, and I even look forward to cooking a turkey on Thanksgiving because it’s kind of fun. But if turkey were that great, we’d eat it more than once or twice a year. It’s not like it’s expensive or hard to cook.

  66. duBois Says:

    I’ve eaten my share of turkey, chicken, duck, and goose and I much prefer the taste of chicken and turkey. The problem with turkey isn’t its taste. The problem is that the taste doesn’t last long. In 2 days, the fats have gone rancid and you’re left with 3-4 lbs of yucky meat to try to finesse into a couple more edible meals. (Ralphie’s dad from the movie Christmas Story was kidding himself. Turkey doesn’t last a week.)

  67. J Says:

    Gravy is turkey. And gravy is good. If the turkey’s meat is just something to put the turkey’s gravy on, why is that a knock on turkey?

  68. Michelle Says:

    Keep up the pressure on turkey! It’s a banal tradition that doesn’t taste great. All that travel time and fuss…for turkey. Give me goose anyday, although I do understand that it is not cost effective.

  69. MaryL Says:

    Supermarket roast turkey can be made pretty good (not awesome, but pretty good), without fussing with brining or risking infernos via deep-frying. The Portuguese recipe above had one crucial element: put your stuffing under the breast skin, not in the cavity.

    Make a nice stuffing of your choice that is good and moist and has some butter in it. Putting it under the skin adds fat and flavour to the white meat and also shields it from overcooking, allowing the legs to catch up. You might also try slashing the legs and rubbing them with fat and herbs to enhance the taste and let them cook through a little faster.

    I tried brining one year and found that the turkey tasted no better than when I skipped that step. Stuffing under the breast skin. That’s all you need.

  70. livius Says:

    You know any restaurants that have roast chicken on the menu?

    Floataway Cafe in Atlanta, GA. They serve the single best roasted chicken I’ve ever had. It’s brined in salt water for 24 hours, then roasted in a wood-burning oven. Insanely delicious.

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